After staying with them for two days, our Tehrani friends had to catch a plane to Europe. Nema was so kind to arrange us other accommodation in a 5-star hotel owned by a family friend. It was a little embarrassing to arrive in our dusty motorcycle suits and drop our dirty bags in the lobby. And then a bit more so when they gave us their most expensive room and didn’t expect any payment. No point in trying to refuse Iranian generosity, so we relaxed in our two-bedroom suite for two days while we waited for our Uzbek visa to be ready