On the desert road between Kashan and Esfahan, in the middle of nowhere, we drove past what is supposed to be Iran’s uranium enrichment plant. Not that we could see much, only kilometres of wire fence, guard towers and large artillery mounted on the hill tops. Every hundred metre or so there were ‘no parking’ and ‘no photo’ signs, urging us to rush through as fast as possible and leave our cameras stashed deeply in our tank bags…